Francis Kurkdjian, Dior’s bold new nose

Francis Kurkdjian has been appointed head of perfumery for Christian Dior, the most difficult position in the world. JULIA NONI FOR CHRISTIAN DIOR PARFUMS

Francis Kurkdjian has been appointed head of perfumery for Christian Dior, the most difficult position in the world.

For weeks the names floated in the air, the riddles played and Avenue Montaigne played loudly… A woman? A person? An LVMH baby? A surprise card? The winner is revealed. The favorite wins… Despite his unpronounceable name (which speaks for itself) and his financial talk, Francis Kurkdjian today is a major player in perfumery, with world-renowned talents. Enticing promises for customers, always wanting something new. And holy bread for journalists who worship his kindness, his availability and his olfactory culture.

Also read” Perfumes and beyond reproach: the perfume goes “green”.

The man with 100 tastes

Francis Kurkdjian dreamed of dancing with the stars. She kept the silhouette fit and beautiful. An article about perfumes read in VSD and now this pure Parisian, far from the Grasse seraglio, changed his style and entered Isipca, the school of the perfumer. Did not graduate from school, he became a short ladder. The fairy is called Chantal Roos, the great woman of perfumes of the 80s and 90s. Under her direction, Francis signed Jean-Paul Gaultier’s Le Male in 1995 and, in At the age of 25, he became a lover of the sensory landscape. In 2001, he created his master perfumer… A quarter of a century and many international awards later, the aspiring perfumer has created methods, among others for Burberry, Carven, Elie Saab, Kenzo…. co-recorded For Her by Narciso Rodriguez with Christine Nagel. For Dior, he created Eau Noire and Cologne Blanche in the Private Collection. Not to mention the great olfactory installations and works with artists from different genres, such as Sophie Calle and Christian Rizzo.

In 2009, he created the house that bears his name and joined the LVMH group in 2017. In his portfolio, the perfumer arrived with two international successes: Aqua Universalis and Baccarat Rouge 540. Although of his new works, Francis is the artistic director of the Maison Francis Kurkdjian.

In front of him, a tragedy of the complex announced by Laurent Kleitman, CEO of Dior perfumes. “Francis Kurkdjian will be able to bring to Dior all perfumes his creative energy, his knowledge and his high standards to register the next Dior perfumes. as bold creations homeless since 1947.”

In the video, decryption of the Dior fashion show with make-up artist Peter Philips

Heritage beauty

After fifteen years of “good and loyal pleasures”, master perfumer François Demachy has taken the time to bow out. During the awards ceremony organized by Maison Dior in Plazza-Athénée, laughter and tears mingled. This is because the epicurean esthete, who loves art, beautiful cars and speed, has managed to love himself. Well, he doesn’t talk about his successes but like many of his colleagues, he remembers his failures well. Those who work lowly with dignity and those who are successful.

The movie was recently released nose led by Arthur de Kersauzon and Clément Beauvais (always seen in different fields) followed him for two years in the four corners of the world in the path of raw materials, or in his lab, after examples of production. And “Good movie smell“It is the crown of a solid career. Starting with Diva d’Ungaro, he continued at Chanel, the time to work at Allure and Coco Mademoiselle, and ended with the blockbuster Sauvage by Dior.

To his credit, he has revisited great heritage lines such as J’Adore or Miss Dior, Joy, the most beautiful Christian Dior Collection (sublime Gris Dior ex Gris Montaigne), Les Escales (ah, the in Portofino!). If he gives 80% of his time to the champion, the “LVMH olfactory development director” also knows the rest of the group, including his favorite, Aqua Di Parma.

This flower lover has worked hard to restore the rose and jasmine gardens to Grasse and has developed unique partnerships with young artists in the area. Grasse, his hometown where he always finds his sidekick Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud, Louis Vuitton perfumer. François never forgets that it was Jacques’ father who partially trained him. Ever since Papa Demachy, a doctor, wanted his son to pursue a career in medicine. He saved souls on his own side. And François Demachy wasn’t as proud as he was when he met a woman on the street wearing one of his creations. A common thing with Francis Kurkdjian who did this work above all to make people happy.

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