The Jewels of Paris – Fred is searching for his inner light


i willObviously, Valérie Samuel knows the house well since her grandfather Fred Samuel was the founder. In his eyes, the legacy of the real estate agent of which he is the vice-president and artistic director is not an archive, but memories that grow over several generations: “My father is late and my uncle in the family business. They were sailors at heart. This taste for the high seas has had great results, as my father Henri owes us the Force 10.” This gold chain, extended by a steel chain, has been on sale since its creation more than 50 years ago. .

Baptized “Inner Light”, the top collection presented at the beginning of September is part of a long process, which includes a large retrospective exhibition that will start in a few days at the Palais de Tokyo and the reprint of the book Memories of a rich person, published in 1993 and written by Fred Samuel himself. The purpose of this speech is to remember the nature of science, but also to ensure that the amount of technical knowledge is available to the general public. These goals will be supported by Charles Leung, Director and CEO of the house since September 2018, who after leading the Cartier store in the Chinese market played a major role in the growth of Chaumet, while in Asia Pacific.

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Close-up of the house

Divided into chapters, “Interior Light” paints an intimate picture of a building and its creator. Engraved on the side of each piece is a mantra – in English – that underlines this relationship. In order to express the taste of the unexpected found in the early works of Fred Samuel, three pieces show a lot of white oriental pearls. “My grandfather started with the Worms brothers in 1925. With them, he became an expert in pearls, which he wanted to add to his artistic vocabulary from the moment he founded his own house in 1936. It is named after a small nuance snow. I liked this trilogy composed of a choker, a cuff and a ring that surrounds two fingers to remember this predilection when it wakes up the sea. These 100 pearls – some from the Southeast Asian white, the other small red Akoya – represent a water that comes and goes, a flower. »

Four works dedicated to the beauty of the marketer who left his mark on film Beautiful Woman : The choker made of ruby ​​and diamond hearts given by Richard Gere to Julia Roberts is signed by the house. This chapter is organized around a black and white pattern where the flame of red tourmaline stands out. Valérie Samuel brings to our attention the special technical skill behind these pieces in onyx, diamonds and black lacquer. “This long necklace with heart links can be changed into a bracelet or a necklace of different variations, some links hide invisible strings that allow you to hang reversible medallions. the central heart medallion, decorated with an 8.29-carat tourmaline, offers 12 different lifts, carrying 50 times the number of lifts provided by the crown, requiring months of work from our workers.”

The cabochon sugar loaf, which recalls the light of Latin America where Fred Samuel lived in his youth, is also presented in a set of 5 pieces without problems. The mosaics of precious stones, beautiful and beautiful composed of aquatic monochromes with good reflections to compliment the double or triplet technique. The ocean blue of a Santa Maria colored aquamarine (which required a year of research) shines from a breastplate that seems to borrow its water movement from waves and light . This beautiful masterpiece, thanks to the ionized titanium that created its image, gives on its side all the chromatic value that was put before. The gold also shines in glory in the 4 parts that enhance the broken asymmetrical lines as many brushes are intended to enhance the fire spread by the yellow and white diamonds. Force 10 finally haunts our memories in a final chapter. The work proposed by Henri Samuel in 1966 confirms the versatility of its style at the heart of 5 independent parts with a bracelet that increases the power. “The shackle, to ensure a unique setting, is cut from a solid block (1,250 carats) of South Asian aquamarine. We put on a pavé of diamonds to give a deep effect. A diamond in the middle catches our eye. His style is different. “This 32-facet cut took us a year to develop. It evokes the ship’s sails. Charles Helleu says here. “It’s a very unique opportunity for a customer to create a stone cut. again. I wanted to baptize him Cut Hero. You can see the tattoo there, but the strength of the shield. This quantity, which respects the courage and perseverance of Fred Samuel, uses the combined lines. The message is clear: the speed of Fred’s development goes with the male.

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