La vie en roses: the revised trial version

Red waterDiptych

Fabrice Pellegrin

Diptyque offers an eau de parfum version of his red water it was first signed by Fabrice Pellegrin in 2012. For this “praise the rose”, the perfumer has dressed damascena and rosa centifolia with chamomile, lychee and artichoke, the sides that the flower has. The brand also offers four flower-inspired lamps in the same collection: Roses, Artichoke, Litchi, Chamomile.

An old rose whose velvety petals are well combined with green, vegetable, peppery, violet-leaf intonation of stems and thorns. One of the most successful of our selection. Between the lights we can only imagine Litchifruit type and fat.

Eau de parfum, 140 euros/75 ml, Candles 67 euros/190 g

Slate PinkMaterial Factory

Celine Perdriel

Atelier Materi continues to explore the natural essence of perfume, this time giving the rose its definition. “city and mineral”. Céline Perdriel combines Damascena rose from Turkey, Centifolia rose from Grasse, soft schinus (red fruit), nutmeg and ambroxan mix together “feminine and masculine, knowledge and character, minerality and emotion”.

The rose is well rendered… it doesn’t really jump into the composition, it’s more woody, resinous, spicy, with hints of pepper and red fruits. The smoking plant, soft but smart, finally reveals some petals.

Eau de parfum, 220 euros / 100 ml

Red skinNAF Naf

Alexandra Carlin

Naf Naf recently announced a collection of fragrances called “My Five, My Thoughts” and give us a place Red skin designed as “a new, sweet and kind word of love”. The bouquet of Bulgarian roses, recorded by Alexandra Carlin, combined with raspberry and patchouli, is completed by a “A very beautiful background and a little mysterious”.

If the collection has a good surprise, it is not a question Red skin. Opening the fruit, where you can see peach and strawberry, it is immediately covered with an overdose of vanilla sugar. The set produces, not a flower, but a healthy yogurt drink, but it should not be sold, like others, at a high price.

Eau de parfum, 39.90 euros / 50 ml


Amelie Bourgeois, Camille Chemardin and Elia Chiche

For the renewal of Versatile, its founder Coralie Frébourg created five perfumes in essential oils, with the famous feature of explaining their composition. One of them, Accrodiac is defined as “neo rose addictive”with history “sleepy night”. The brand features aniseed vegetal notes, facets of matcha tea, and a leather and animal base.

One of the characteristics of this extract is that it does not show high notes, which is the result of its oil support. But the rose is really central, with its green and sweet features. It is long on a tree and sweet, beautiful while still leaving its list. “east” (but can we leave it that way?).

Extract, 49 euros/15 ml


Karine Dubreuil

In Fragonard, the flower of the year is not the rose, but the wild rose, called the wild rose and “the ancestor of the rosebush of our civilized garden”. Karine Dubreuil reinvents her perfume “all grace and simplicity” by combining mandarin, blackcurrant, lychee, wild rose, rose absolute, raspberry, “white amber”, musks and cedar Virginia.

A fresh and green rose, just picked from the garden, first showing metallic lemongrass and geranium edges, before rounding out with notes of tangy raspberry and sweet musks. Without revolution, this walk between rosehips will be beautiful, even more humble.

Eau de toilette, 20 euros / 50 ml, also available in diffuser and soap

Wild Rose coachCoach

For this new flanker of its female pillar, the American leather goods manufacturer has been strengthened “the beauty of a field of wild flowers”. The fragrance, described as “gentle and bold”, opens with notes of gooseberry “soft and shiny” and bergamot “Solar and Spicy”before flowering “beautiful roses” and jasmine sambac, in the background “Warm and herbal with crystal moss and strong ambroxan”.

There is no rose beside this wildflower garden that boasts an orange blossom bathed in a syrup of red berries and amber woods. A refreshing cocktail that brings to mind the novelty It was forbidden from Givenchy…

Eau de parfum 21.50 euros/10ml, 51.90 euros/30ml, 74 euros/50ml, 104 euros/90ml

remember the rosesThe Tool Maker

Christopher Raynaud

L’Artisan Parfumeur publishes a booklet, described as “a mix of rose and citrus”. Christophe Raynaud likes it “perpetuate the freshness of fleeting beauty” by connecting the queen of flowers with citrus fruits. The brand is known as “a song that delights in the mind, imagination, sense of play and counterpoint “.

The first rose is fresh and citrusy, with small fruity notes, reminiscent of lychee. Citrus quickly became serious, imposing itself with vigor. They are supported by a kind of sweet amber wood that we prefer not to meet. A rose that does not remain on the shelves or memories.

Eau de Parfum, 150 euros / 100 ml

red thunderEditions de Parfums Frédéric Malle

Edouard Flechier

This is not a new rose, but a new name for the one that Édouard Fléchier first created for Frédéric Malle in 2000. It seems that the reason is related to its export to China, where it could not be original name is omitted.

Compared to a bottle ofA rose from a few years ago, there is no doubt difference: we see the flower in glory, first new and then more velvety, honeyed, earthy, retro and opulent as desired. If its sillage lasts longer than most roses in the selection, so does its price.

Eau de parfum, 59 euros/10 ml, 155 euros/30 ml, 205 euros/50 ml, 290 euros/100 ml

Lovers of redKerigan

Designed as a tribute to the work of Marc Chagall and his muse Bella, this creation by Cherigan, a Parisian house from the Roaring Twenties relaunched in 2021, offers. “roses, peonies and jasmine” somewhere in the forest, somewhere “shine under a blackcurrant – lemon – ginger effect”so “a message of love for art in all its forms”.

What stands out above all at first glance is a caramelized-woody-amber finish with notes of rose petal jam, red fruits, and above all a reminder of the contract. popular Baccarat 540 red of Maison Francis Kurkdjian, shown later. A jammy bouquet, in short.

Perfume, 128 euros / 100 ml

Red Little Black DressGuerlain

Delphine Jelk

If the first version of Guerlain’s bestseller had honored the rose – considered “the ghost of the little black dress” by Delphine Jelk – in two forms (Turkish absolute and Bulgarian essence), this variant is considered a tribute to the queen of flowers. “Inviting a third rose to join the dance: the Centifolia from Grasse, with sweet honey tones. »

We see almond, cherry, licorice, a little powder of the first one, and if the rose is not the center, it seems to bring its flowery nature and a velvety softness. The fragrance begins with a classic base, wood, pink, tonka bean, a little chypre, which expresses the spirit of the Guerlain house without weighing down unnecessary sugar.

Eau de parfum, 76 euros/30 ml, 105 euros/50 ml

Red metamorphosisSwirling

A young brand founded in Provence, Virevolte offers a range of four “natural fragrance and sensuality”, made from natural ingredients and organic grain alcohol. this is Red metamorphosisconsidered for a “nymph, gentle, innocent”to wear “enlighten”includes rose with cotton flower, lemon, green note, freesia, elemi, aquatic note, styrax and benzoin.

This chord is composed of 100% natural without doubt from comparison with its acolytes. “traditional”. The rose appears metallic, almost strident, surrounded by citrus fruits and aldehydes of lemon and orange, very green and watery, ozonic, which can be surprising for something natural. The bottom is more resinous, balmy, patchouli, slightly rounded, but fades quickly. The advantage: you can try the ordered perfume with a sample and return the bottle if it doesn’t suit you.

Eau de parfum, 75 euros / 50 ml

Rose of China, Rose of Russia, Rose of AmalfiTom Ford

It is not one but three roses that Tom Ford is promoting in his Private Blend collection, linked to three gardens that invite you to travel. Russian Rose it is described as a rose “opulent, darkly dramatic” together with white paper, wood and leather. China Rose is suitable as“rough and tough”with its contrast between peonies and the fiery notes of cistus and myrrh. Amalfi Rose draw a picture “relational and emotional” of flowers, mixed with bergamot, pink peppercorns and “sun heliotrope”.

We didn’t have time to kiss them.

Eau de parfum 215 euros / 50 ml

Countess Olenska, Rosé, Halfeti RoseDSH Road Equipment

A triptych is presented by DSH Perfumes, the brand of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, American perfumer, artist and aromatherapist. Olenska church a “a mysterious soliflore of a yellow rose”it has citrusy and green notes that play with sweeter, warmer and sweeter sides. Bright evokes the aroma and color of this summer wine through fruit and water notes – but not the sea, points out the brand. Half Rosereleased in a small press, includes a rose-oud accord of resins, spices, fruit and galbanum.

We didn’t have time to kiss them.

Eau de parfum, Box 75 dollars/3 x 5 ml (refillable roll-ons), also available, in different shapes and at different prices.

Main information: The Roses of Heliogabalus, Lawrence Alma-Tadema, 1888, Pérez Simón collection, Mexico City.

An article by Constance de Roubaix and Carole Couturier is dedicated to this painting in the ninth issue of Nez magazine.

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