Autumn Fragrances: Ancient Secrets We Don’t Do…

In 2008, in the middle of a crisis in the stock market, Paco Rabanne threw a gold coin into the lake: his perfume, 1 Million, was the best seller of the year. His wife, Lady Million, followed two years later. A card like this isn’t often found in perfume, so it’s a question of digging into the vein endlessly.

1 Million Privé and Lady Million Privé, more powerful, were born in 2016. And this year, for the 10th anniversary of the line, 1 Million Laki and Lady Million Laki will carry the torch in embracing the gourmet innovation that millennials love. Same but different, each chapter has a story that connects people.

Today, most of the great successes are rejected until they disappear, like the story of La Petite Robe noire, by Guerlain (eau de toilette, eau de parfum, eau fraîche, Intense, Hippie Chic, Black Perfecto… ) or The best seller of recent years, La Vie est Belle, by Lancôme.

We have explained how what is known in the jargon as a flanker, with the spice Daphne Bugeythe creator of Scandal, by Jean Paul Gaultier, and its nocturnal side released in mid-August 2018: Scandal by Night.

Femina Is there a special way when it comes to fixing a scent?
Daphne Bugey We think about how we want to organize the fragrance, what is its story. For Scandal, we followed Madame La Minister (the sulphurous character featured in the ad) to the toilet, day and night. The fragrance is composed of floral, beautiful, bright elements for the day and other sensual, sensual, woody elements to stimulate the night. Now, when we are alone at night, Madam Minister forgets her professional duties. It is, shamelessly, in the universe. Then we will think about what can encourage this feeling of exuberance, opulence, hypersexuality. I immediately thought of tuberose. A white flower, but very narcotic, very rich, ultra feminine. Its sweet and milky texture is combined with sandalwood to create a new herbal profile, unlike the original. This is what sets it apart.

You’re the writer of Scandal, the first one, but sometimes there’s someone else who makes a scene. Isn’t that iconoclastic?
I had one, of course. I did some versions of Classique (signed to Jacques Cavallier, in 1993): L’essence, Summer Betty Boop, Summer Wonder Woman… it’s difficult, because you don’t want to betray the spirit of success 25 years, but. you have to choose what to keep: what I’m interested in today and how to redefine it with more codes. Iconoclast, I don’t think so. You can do it respectfully, without betraying the spirit of the perfumer.

It happens all the time in music, parts are taken by other musicians, remixed. Vanessa Paradis who brought The whirlwind of life, by Jeanne Moreau, has her beauty, brings something else! It works in all shapes and sizes, so why not in fragrance!

You often have noses working on the same project, how does it work concretely?
An idea always comes from a single person. In general, we don’t have much in the beginning. After a few months, we invite other perfumers to give another version of the desired note. We do our own, then we take our best tests and the customer chooses the one that is closest to what he is looking for.

Citrus flavors are making a comeback

1 / 5

Sì Passione, eau de parfum, Giorgio Armani, approx. 125 fr. the 50 ml (and the original Sì, eau de parfum, on the left).

© DR

Lady Million Lucky by Paco Rabanne

2 / 5

Lady Million Luck, eau de parfum, Paco Rabanne, close up. 100 fr. the 50 ml. (Lady Million, eau de parfum).

© DR

two bottles of Black Perfecto by La Petite Robe Noire

3 / 5

Black Perfecto by La petite Robe noire, floral eau de toilette, Guerlain, approx. 100 fr. the 50 ml. (and the original Black Perfecto by La petite Robe noire, eau de parfum).

© DR

La vie est belle by Lancôme and its version Eclat

4 / 5

La Vie est Belle, L’Eclat, eau de parfum, Lancôme, nearby. 152 fr. the 75 ml. (and the original and best-selling La Vie est Belle, eau de parfum, right).

© DR

Narcissus and Red Narcissus

5 / 5

Narciso Rouge, eau de parfum, Narciso Rodriguez, approx. 120 fr. the 50 ml. (and original Narciso, eau de parfum).

© DR

To receive the latest articles from Femina, subscribe to the newsletter.


Leave a Comment

%d bloggers like this: