in times of disease, the smell is reviving

Fruits that are larger than life, a flower festival for morale, sillages for yourself like many mind trips…

Some perfumes have a very strong effect. They register a T social moment or historical presage, ask us and propel us to a new time… Flashback to the trends of the last two years before diving into the future.

From the beginning of the third millennium, in the time of the euro, happy olfactory events were born, niche or the main reason. Mugler’s Cologne and its famous mole S with its brutality, Magnificent Secretions of the Free State of Orange, where all the waters meet in an iodized water, Dior Homme and its approach to water woman or Mugler’s Alien in extraordinary voluptuousness. The second year, under the control of the problem to be more intelligent but more expressive, as if to avoid it! Shown by the result of flavors with high advertising potential, such as Guerlain’s Petite Robe Noire, through La Vie est Belle promoted by Lancôme and its signature praline, the top of the list started by Angel de Mugler.

A flower in a ruby ​​bottle, Eau de Parfum La Nuit Trésor Intense, Lancôme; a beautiful wave, Revitalizing Eau de Toilette N° 1 l’Eau Rouge, Chanel; African Magic, Eau de Parfum Magenta Tanzanite, Giorgio Armani. Directed by Julie Gillet. Fabrice Cormy

Since then, the strong wind 8 has hit on the business, dedicated or started many models, which is “5 fruits and vegetables in every water” can say now. “The long road of cancer has taught us one important thing: emotion is life.

At the top of Maslow’s pyramid (which ranks needs in order of importance), the law is long. This house is turned into a diamond!, said Lana Glazman, vice-president of science and marketing at Firmenich, a perfume factory. Freeing yourself from men, wearing perfume for yourself, learning about the culture of perfume and understanding all the environmental issues. “

You need to smell the perfume without it falling into the clothes bag

Elisabeth Vidal-Diaz in Puig

fifty shades of youth

At the time of the third woman, Indochina and its beautiful electro power hit. 3SEX, with Christine and The Queens still speaking to a new generation. And if this air is perfumed, it may be neofloral, the N° 1 of Chanel L’Eau Rouge, which is supposed to be a skin care water, can recreate the scent. It rests like a kiss on patient bodies, all happy to rub shoulders with the jasmine-orange-rosy heart extracted by Olivier Polge, the in-house perfumer.

And to eat all this? “A perfume should make people melt without falling into a pocket,” says Elisabeth Vidal-Diaz at Puig. Therefore, we reduce ethyl-maltol with caramel praline flavor. And the flavors are completed with fresh natural extracts of fruits such as apple and pear. For a fresh, light and bright scent like Nina Ricci’s Nina Soleil, where citrus fruits melt into a blended oil. As polymorphic as love is in 2022, the fragrance is reinventing itself. “I look at the way the big bottle is tired and unhappy in the atmosphere, said Jeanne Doré, the founder of the website Au parfum and Nez, the olfactory magazine. Young people give Young as versatile they have a roll-on oil type and very suitable for this type.”

The white marriage of herbal musk and orange blossom, Eau de Parfum Musc Outreblanc, Collection L’Art et La Matière, Guerlain; fresh water reflection, Eau de Parfum L’Eau d’Issey, Issey Miyake; a floral amber with mirabelle plum and dates, Eau de Parfum Naturelle Nomade, Chloé. Directed by Julie Gillet. Fabrice Cormy

Because I feel good

The patient was given a special pleasure: entering the smell in a hedonistic way. “We need comfort, olfactory pleasures that are not compared to perfumes but show themselves in moderato on the skin without losing their presence, like Dominique Ropion’s Cologne Indélébile”, shows the artist Frédéric Malle. A vision expressed by Arnaud Guggenbuhl, Marketing Director of Fine Fragrance at Givaudan: “These volatile bodies are a scent of extimacy, a Lacanian concept that aims to share one’s intimacy in its true form very.”

In the video: Léa Seydoux in the campaign Spell On You, the new fragrance from Louis Vuitton.

In the answer? Waters where the head is easy and where the sound is placed in the right place by doing things that excite each other emotionally, explained the expert. Spell On You, conceived by Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud for Louis Vuitton, succeeds well when the fluffy iris goes tit for tat with cloudy musks.
The equivalent of Musc Outreblanc signed by Delphine Jeck in the L’Art et La Matière de Guerlain collection, is an immaculate musky monolith crossed by iris, amber and sandalwood, in every sense. Smell is a mental journey for some. Under the breath of Aqua Warm in Couvent, created by Jean-Claude Ellena, with its spray of vanilla frangipani flowers. Or the other spirit of Nomade Eau de Parfum Naturelle by Chloé and its free, sun-kissed jasmine relaxation.

Perfume is not easy, before buying, you need to know how to live with it! The right thing? The sample is before the smear

Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud, perfumer at Louis Vuitton

high discharge water

A sign of the times, the perfume frees itself from the codes and rekindles the flame of indifference. Luc Gabriel, the founder of The Different Company in 2000, revives the Cherigan brand, a sleeping beauty of the Roaring Twenties: “By avoiding the vintage pitfall and thinking about different styles of the moment”, he sums up.

To be smelled without condescension, Fleurs de Tabac releases sweet rose-benzoin-vetiver swirls. The owner of the season also goes through Damier des Bains Guerbois, who took on his cover the chessboard floor created by Philippe Starck in 1978. In honor of the company where a we met with Prince or Joy Division without a VIP screen, there was water inside. black and white in a peppery duo inspired by a milky sandal.

Finally, the forbidden style, YSL’s Black Opium Illicite Green brings together two talents for the hit cocktail, the nose Nathalie Lorson and the bartender Margot Lecarpentier, in a very successful shot of coffee Black infused with soothing mandarin green. Burlesque stripping shows all its flesh with Flowerbomb Ruby Orchid by Viktor & Rolf in a palette of peach, jasmine and vanilla. Finally, because a religious fragrance has the gift of emancipation, Gris Dior by Christian Dior, with its multichromatic chypre trail, intoxicates the mind. And packaged in a small houndstooth print bottle and box, it looks timeless.

A fragrant and ultra-honey chypre, Eau de Parfum Scandal, Jean Paul Gaultier; a breath of fresh and delicious, Un Jardin sur la Lagune, Hermès; the vertigo of beauty, Eau de Parfum Desirial pour Elle, Vivacy; the essence of beauty, Eau de Parfum Gris Dior, Dior Limited Edition New Look. Directed by Julie Gillet. Fabrice Cormy

The rose pulls its thorn from the game

On the big chessboard of raw materials, the Queen Rose does not want to miss her turn! It is closely watched when it is recorded by the composers, it always gives the goods. “We took the time to smell it differently, to watch the flower come out of the ground, bloom, dry. It gives life, it’s also soft, says Marie Salamagne at Firmenich. via rose upcycled made from distilled water that is often thrown away. .” The perfumer used Rose Blush by Jo Malone, a pink liquid inspired by lychee and enlivened by basil.

This unique patina can be appreciated in the Eau Rose by Diptyque created by Fabrice Pellegrin, where each artichoke, chamomile and lychee express an unknown aspect of the queen of flowers. A rich petal, vitaminized with rose berry for Eau de Toilette Fraîche Irrésistible by Givenchy. What if we dream of freedom? Coach’s Wild Rose features a western wild rose, which grows on the American great plains.

The pleasures of “nowstalgia”

1992 was a breakthrough year for perfume. A real olfactory change has given birth to several images: Angel by Thierry Mugler, Eau Parfumée au thé vert by Bulgari, but also L’Eau d’Issey, which will offer a new version Eau & Magnolia in March. At that time, designer Issey Miyake dreamed of “the smell of a drop of water on a woman’s skin”. Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud’s nose made it a mythical aquatic flower, a “water where flowers and musky trees float” with a melon. The bottle, this noble design cone, was inspired by the moon shining over the Eiffel Tower.

Another 30-year-old wonder, Féminité du Bois by Serge Lutens. A shock with its overdose of cedar wood, a gourmet and types of honey from the souks of Marrakech, its notes of plum and flower, a water of nature that starts a perfume, radical and demand. This “pharmacy store” is celebrating its anniversary with a vintage bottle, decorated with a silhouette designed by Serge Lutens himself. Smoking is a waste of time.

Marie-Bénédicte Gauthier is the co-author with Dominique Ropion of “Aphorismes d’un parfumeur”, published by Nez Éditions.

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