Here’s how perfume can reinvent itself…

Be content with not knowing

Not long ago, for Valentine’s Day, advertisements always promoted perfumes as weapons of mass seduction or love potions. By making us women, the lucky thing immediately fell into our hands. The result: during the search for a soul mate, bouquets are as accurate as ultra-tight dresses on the side of women or breasts and muscular stomachs on the side of men. Today, the idea has changed. Even if the game of love lasts – and good luck! – social development. “We’re not going to catch anyone by the collar anymore”, says Arnaud Guggenbuhl, marketing director at Givaudan, a perfume company. In a study*, 72% of women confirmed that they would like it “wearing a perfume to tempt others without knowing to do so”. Cool, yes, but without showing it off. So, in the future, the idea of ​​”fluid sensuality”, like this new lingerie that can be chosen without showing. The stars of the world, the music of the great houses, embody this search for self and affirmation, this discovery of inner strength. Because Life is beautiful by Lancôme, Julia Roberts frees herself from her chains and shines in front of the Eiffel Tower, while Lady Gaga shows off her artistic talents in the campaign of Voice Viva Valentino, or Johnny Depp playing guitar in the desert, because Bad people by Dior. The bottles are smaller in the first degree. If someone lives a lot, like good girl by Carolina Herrera, in the form of stiletto heels, and lipstick no yes i am of Cacharel, they are a symbol of women’s empowerment
what a stupid post. But let us reassure you: giving your loved one the perfume they wore during the first meeting is a powerful symbol.

* Produced in France at the end of 2019 in a class of 300 women by Givaudan.

> See also: We have tested the 5 best anti-aging creams for you

By appealing to our most primitive senses, the scent evokes an interesting feeling. But at the time of the mass movement represented by #MeToo and the flood of trends, it is reshaping its image and
develops its own aromas.

Play another number

In terms of composition, emotional codes are rediscovered over time. For perfumer Jean-Christophe Hérault, “Sexy perfumes, male or female, are known by their power and the aura they give off”. It’s a goldsmith’s work on original songs, things that go on and become popular. The role of several large families of spices. At the top of the list of crunchy spices, “balsamic and balmy”, formerly known as “oriental”, appreciated by men and women. We often add flavors of vanilla or tonka bean. The best example is: Salimara by Guerlain. These flavors are now made by adding red fruits (cherry, blackcurrant, etc.) or in some cases evoking rum. More feminine, white floral notes (tuberose, jasmine, orange blossom), “stronger than you think”, inspired by Jean-Christophe Hérault, this time it is renewed by the softness of white musks, peach or apricot. On their part, the virile red skins become light and beautiful with the introduction of velvety deer skin. The mysterious chypres family, like Aromatics Elixir by Clinique, frees itself from the complexity of moss oak and earthy patchouli to keep only the complementary parts. The best work is done by new technologies for the separation of natural substances or cold extraction. As for animal stories (civet, natural musk, castoreum, etc.), they are famous for their physicality and their ability to warm a scent. Banned for a long time, they were replaced by cumin, blackcurrant seeds or synthetic molecules. Let’s add new natural ingredients to the sexy list: spices (chili, cinnamon, etc.), to strengthen the nostrils, or blood extract. “Super powdery, gourmet and animalistic, it’s very addictive”, observes Jean-Christophe Hérault. Afraid of doing too much? Let’s give the floor to Mathilde Laurent, the house nose at Cartier and the founder of the podcast Inspired… by Cartier: “A good perfume that gives a good and established shock, like love at first sight, you will never forget. Beauty and passion, it will be something to connect with another.”

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