Vanilla, a sweet and seductive scent

An orchid native to Mexico, vanilla is grown around the world. As the world’s leading exporter, Madagascar has a wide range of uses for spices: vanilla planifolia. “Another type of vanilla, less used, is Tahiti with strong aniseed notes,” says Bertrand Duchaufour, nose of Les Bains Guerbois perfumery.

Vanilla, the aroma comes from the flower

Basically, the smell of vanilla? We’ll stop you right now, because going from flower to perfume requires many steps. Of course, in order to obtain the vanilla pod from which the strong aroma that we know is carried, the vanilla flower must first be infused.

In Mexico, where vanilla originated, this process is actually done by bees. In other parts of the world, especially in Madagascar, it is up to humans to maintain it through a manual pollination process. A few months after ripening, the flower produces a pod, which is harvested when ripe.. “Then we’ll dry the straw until it’s black,” said the nose.

Next step? Extraction by the volatile compounds of this pod, which gives a full aroma with a hot aroma, we eat the main aroma in the vanilla pod: vanillin. “Today, it is possible to use green beans, to give a different aroma to the real thing, with more herbs and flowers, and less than the black vanilla pod” , details Bertrand Duchaufour.

The easiest and longest to work with, has become vanilla it is rare and precious at a high price. “Real vanilla is almost impossible to use in modern perfumes, or in small quantities because of its high cost”, confirms the nose.

So what are perfumes used for? Synthetic vanilla is basically the “nature equivalent” of vanillin and ethyl vanillin. “These are delicious, very good and inexpensive ingredients, which can meet the needs of the market and provide gourmet results, necessary for perfumers at the moment”, confirmed the expert.

A strong source document

related to childhood, vanilla flavorings by its sweetness and its sweetness it makes you hope. Don’t underestimate her seductive power, because she also knows how to be sweet and sweet, which means kissing with the heart.

Often used as base notes to support compositions and give them hold (base notes are the strongest and most powerful part of the olfactory pyramid, editor’s note), it goes well olfactory properties with many properties and show many unexpected qualities.

“Often seen in connection with sweet notes like coffee, caramel or chocolate”, developed Bertrand Duchaufour. powder effect, and aromatic and oriental, or leather effects due to its natural phenolic notes. It can also be associated with tobacco contracts, eg 1978 Swimming Pools from Les Bains Guerbois where tobacco is flavored… with vanilla. to the perfume 1885 Sulfurous bath, an oriental flower built around fresh notes, vanilla is combined with balsams and herbs in order to reinforce the feeling of the tropical climate of Les Bains. It gives a great feeling. “

Among the images of the new perfume, vanilla is important in Shalimar by Guerlain, Angel by Thierry Mugler, Allure by Chanel and Black Opium by Yves Saint Laurent.

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