The perfume industry is being organized to avoid shortage of raw materials

“When the house goes, everything goes”, We often hear it said in economic circles, to strengthen the administrative work of building the growth of a country. In the world of fragrance, this is another word that is often said. “When patchouli goes, everything goes! » It can evoke hippies and the 1970s, the herb with its woody aroma, for connoisseurs there is a significant difference.

Without patchouli, there is no angel, Thierry Mugler, Coco Mademoiselle, Chanel, La vie est belle, Lancôme, and Miss Dior Chérie. Without it, there would be none of these best sellers under the Christmas trees… Its loss would be a disaster for the economy (like the laundry giants and laundry makers, because , patchouli is used in these products).

Disaster almost came in 2008. In Indonesia, the source of the world’s patchouli production, many farmers abandoned its cultivation due to lack of income. And crops do better with more rain. Patchouli essential oil is in short supply, and prices have risen, sometimes increasing tenfold.

It is part of the world

It took two years for the company to recover. “Getting up later is great”, remembers Dominique Roques, author of Essence Gatherer (Grasset, 2021) a “original” The ingredients belong to the Swiss company Firmenich, one of the world’s leaders in spices and flavors.

Fortunately, the problem was short-lived, and patchouli did not disappear from the perfumer’s palette. Nor has it been replaced by Clearwood, a substitute obtained from biotechnology, produced by processing sugar cane, and recommended by Firmenich researchers in times of permanent shortage.

The war in Somaliland continues as the spice harvest continues. The Iran embargo makes it difficult to sell galbanum gum

Above all, the patchouli episode of 2008 reminds us of the episode, before it was made into business books and distributed in bottles all over the world, the perfume found in the basis of traditional agriculture. “90% of the products we buy come from family farming or wild harvesting”, said Bertrand de Préville, director of Naturals at Laboratoires Monique Rémy (LMR, owner of IFF, another giant in the perfume industry). Therefore, if most of the perfumes sold in supermarkets and shops are made with synthetic ingredients, the so-called “sad” require more than 40% natural products.

You have 81.32% of this article left to read. This is for registered users only.

Leave a Comment

%d bloggers like this: