In need of perfume, the queen of flowers gathers flowers, fruits, herbs, spices and musks. Opulent or tangy, silky or boxy, this eternal youth always seems to pique our curiosity.
More rose water stories? You forget that under the velvety petals there are thorns and spurs that are not always green flowers. A rose is a great lover, wife, mother, love, girl in curves and a muse 100% male water… In the Middle East, men wet themselves without losing the hair of virility. Ambivalent, fragile and steadfast, Cocteau called him a “rustic industrialist”. In flower, she is a girl and… in silver, a boy. It’s childhood and passion. Sometimes it sleeps a little on its laurels, but it blooms again, awakened by the corpse’s sweat, spurred on the skin, burned with spices, sweet with red fruit, covered with musks, eroticized with the oud, completely reinvented by the magic of chemistry. A rose can live alone, but many like it. Now, because of his young age, he often goes to fruits, sugar and macaron family, but as he grows up, he does not hate strong friends, smoking, spices , and vegetables, sometimes go out with the skin. clothes. And he often goes to bed with musks. They comfort him. And with us.
The bottle comes from the garden
With the new desire for nature, the shape and form of the rose is at the heart of all desires. “There are hundreds of types of roses, explains Francis Kurkdjian, the most educated of perfumers, but two perfumes are used.” Damask rose (Rosa Damascena) from Bulgaria, Turkey but also from India, Egypt or Morocco, and the route of May (Rosa centifolia), more secretive, is cultivated in Grasse and in North Africa. The first one is more generous, stronger, with a sweet and fruity taste, even the jammy side. The main one has a small artichoke or green chamomile side.
Second, the Rosa centifolia, more petalled, meatier, honey with more subtle lemony peppery notes. It is the one that is protected by beautiful buildings as a national treasure through the development of its culture in Grasse. Chanel was the first, thirty years ago, to start a partnership with a manufacturer in the country to guarantee the longevity of the extract N ° 5. Polge, the perfumer in the house. Surprisingly, in N° 19, where the iris reigns supreme, we see the most red. It’s still in Misia. Today, however, he gives it the main role in Eau Paris-Paris, “A patchouli rose with a very good note, clean, clean, bright.” The essence of beauty.
In recent years, Dior, Vuitton and Lancôme have also helped restore the May rose’s popularity. It is not beautiful or colorful, but soft and precious! The most expensive, from €16,000 per kilo of full organic €20,000. Aurélien Guichard, who founded his brand Matière Première in 2019, is the only perfumer to own and cultivate his own. Rosa centifolia organic: two hectares he works with his family in the south of France. “Radical Rose is one of the best perfumes. It appeals to those who don’t like rose. However, it contains an insane amount of truth Rosa centifolia. There is no perfume in the world that uses so many things,” he said. In this innocent rose, everything is overdosed, the spicy facet with saffron and Jamaican pepper, which first gave it has a sparkle, but patchouli and cistus labdanum. “When we pick the roses, there is a kind of resin hanging on the hands. That’s what I wanted to write with this dark rose, a little dangerous, unsexy, with a spicy side. Fever, not beauty.
Angels and demons
We always say: “The rose is the queen, the jasmine is the king and the iris is the king,” says Francis Kurkdjian. It is an important flower, among many songs. To make a lily of the valley, we start from the rose. For fishing, you must. Above all, we have a false image of him. It is considered an ancient form, although it is gnannnan, since the amplitude of its sides is infinite. It’s like pink… Between pink and white, sugared almond and fuchsia, there are thousands of shades. Because of his good nature, we think he is easy. It’s true that it goes with everything: other flowers, herbs, fruits, spices, musks, amber, green, and watery notes like Eau d’Issey by Issey Miyake.
In fact, he is unstable, flexible and always surprising. “He’s an angel and a demon,” said Christine Nagel, the Hermès perfumer who singled him out at Galop d’Hermès. “To create something new that deserves interest with it, you first need to know it,” says perfumer Dominique Ropion, who signed, among others, Portrait of a Lady , the bestseller from Éditions Fréderic Malle. “The rose is the perfume of what nature draws,” said the latter. We can make it educational, fun or… The Women of Avignon.” It is so complex that Frédéric Malle devoted four chapters to it. Lipstick Rose, by Ralf Schwieger, pop art and beautiful with its lipstick scent; Rose & Cuir, by Jean-Claude Ellena, unisex and mysterious; Portrait of a Lady, by Dominique Ropion, a voluptuous oriental with a raspberry-blackcurrant background and a riot of Turkish roses; and finally Rose Tonnerre, by Édouard Fléchier, a rose night that is exciting in China.
Organizations and non-unions
Francis Kurkdjian pays tribute to the garden diva. Each bottle of its À La Rose eau de parfum contains 250 newly blooming Grasse roses, with soft and sensual inflections, and 150 Damask roses, whose shape opens its pear, lychee tone … Soon another rose? “It is the flag of freedom, kindness, no thorns, no need to argue to live…”, he agreed. Will it explode at Dior, who has a new nose? It is a mystery, but it will not be forgotten that beauty is Christian Dior’s favorite flower, his eternal subject of inspiration and symbol of happiness with his mother, Madeleine, and his sister Catherine.
If the rose of Granville is reserved for conservation, the Domaine de Manon, in Grasse, is the signature of Miss Dior, cuvée François Demachy. The May flower essence that was distilled during the 2021 collection was reserved for Miss Dior Rose Essence, a new floral, alcoholic and herbal chypre in which its cousin, the geranium. The perfumer Jean Jacques also knows that the rose can do everything: “It succeeds in all olfactory families, from cologne to the east through chypres. And remember to accept the rose-patchouli of Clinique Aromatics Elixir is legendary. “Twenty years ago, I created a love story between roses and coffee for L’Or de Torrente.”
Since then, Jean Jacques has been the exclusive perfumer of the Caron house in the middle of a revolution. Rose Ivoire, Délire de Rose, Rose Ébène, Parfum Sacré, which extinguishes the rose on fire with 6% black pepper… At the end of the century, the brand first opened the leaves of the rose in all its beauty, but always. looking for new experiences, this year Jean Jacques offers Rose Croquante, a cucumber rose, the quintessence of freshness. A duo full of beauty and purpose for summer. Finally, there is no guerlinade without a rose. The latest Petite Robe Noire Rose Rose combines the chic trio of Bulgarian rose essence, Turkish rose absolute and Grasse rose infused into a base blend of black cherry, bitter almond and bergamot. Rose Barbare, from the Haute Parfumerie collection, is strong, wild and colorful as Carmen, Bizet’s opera.
Weddings of the season
With the prince: Once upon a time, there was a fairy tale garden, a trio of wild roses with an enchanting scent, a bite of Rose Prick by Tom Ford (1)…
With a charm: take you on an olfactory safari behind the African Rose by Memo (2).
With a spice: for Rose Goldea Blossom Delight eau de toilette by Bulgari (3), Alberto Morillas recreates the accord of roses about to bloom, wrapped in a lace of spring flowers, white musks and with cedar.
With the narrator: “If I really like this flower, it’s because it knows how to tell all the stories. Not the same, it always surprises me”, says perfumer Christophe Raynaud, who wrote Mémoire de Roses (4) for L’Artisan Parfumeur, a young, happy and crystalline rose.
With a famous American florist: Maurice Harris, who signed a partnership with Diptyque. Among the ingredients, Eau Rose (5) presents unexpected notes of artichoke, lychee and chamomile.
With the cleaning dandy: who gave the Infusion de Rose de Prada (6) its freshness and richness.