Love Hugs, Life Breaks and Riches: Perfume Review #15

The days are getting warmer and the wedding season is in full swing, prompting new announcements to celebrate married bodies, sunny countries and their favorite things. And to start our journey, let’s first go to Italy, sign of good life.

As shown by its evocative name, Divine perversion, the new brand of Francesca Bianchi, the founder of the owner of its name, does not hide its game and offers otherwise. “fun” to the skin. This is also the heart of the perfume Hedonicflavored with caramel, amber, raspberry, and animal notes, “it brings energy, the human mind and the body, making the perfume unpleasant”. Leather, fruit and violet flesh, slightly refined, consistent with the perfume’s signature.

Perfume 168 euros / 50 ml


Along with Many times, Giuseppe Imprezzabile celebrates, for his brand Meo Fusciuni, the combination of things, but sentimental more than physical. He told us about it “eternal love between two people” and he discovered it during a trip to Laos. The perfume marks a work around tea, combined with bergamot, mandarin, osmanthus, champaca, magnolia, maté, benzoin and sandalwood. That’s how he caught it “Some moments in life are like slow motion black and white photography” through this white spring flower.

Open 210 euros / 100 ml


Arquiste is another puzzle, the Roman Emperor Hadrian and Antinous, his lost lover, whom he commemorates with many sculptures. To express the “difficulty and connection”, Rodrigo Flores-Roux created in Givaudan a “sweet, salty and musky aroma” placed skinusing ambergris, “pure musk blend”, clary sage, white pepper from India, derivatives of labdanum and okoumé wood from Gabon. Amber wood is a part of that, which characterizes many of today’s leather fragrances…

Eau de parfum 170 euros / 100 ml

Roman Antiquity and its language have also inspired the names of the three new objects that have been developed in Neela Vermeire’s “Fragments By NVC” collection. Developed before the disease period, they attract the aspects of life, through different colors and evocations. Nemuswith its citrus, tea notes, sage, ginger, ambergris, insenso, oud and patchouli, related to innovation, marked by a green shade. purpureumwhich in Latin refers to the purple hue, evokes the “dark heat” by marrying pepper and immortelle with fig, magnolia, rum, coffee, cocoa, tobacco, tonka bean, labdanum, myrrh and leather. Thyina Finally, it is built around sandalwood, associated with beige tones and comfort. The milk tree is finished with chilli, lavender, violet, hazelnut, coffee, Tolu balsam, amyris, styrax and birch. A triptych is thought to have a unisex goal, moving away from the main floral themes of the house (even if the fragrances are not masculine!).

Open 160 euros / 50 ml


There is the old style Enbyintroducing the viewer “Mocking Oedipus as Electra” and was launched by the unisex ready-to-wear brand Genderfluid by the artist Soull, who called on his mother, the perfumer Majda Bekkali, to create three unisex fragrances. The first one is explained “an insightful and refreshing composition that invites memory wandering”with notes of white flowers, honey, grass and leather. Hello Queer as he invites us to the carnival of Rio, with the joyful spirit translated by “immediate taste and epicurean effect” rum, featuring frangipani flowers and ylang, on a base of leather and patchouli. In IEL finally, the “The Eternal Flow of Life” living in us is revealed by “Red and juicy notes of red mandarin”finished with red bay, hibiscus flower, and red and pink, paint the scenes of life in Montmartre, where “a small house covered with Virginia creeper”. Finally (the only one we got) is a vanilla musk powder softened with some citrus fruits, reminiscent of a marshmallow.

Eau de parfum 95 euros / 50 ml


Let’s stay in France but leave its capital and reach the south with the new power ofHerbae from L’Occitane, which presents Provençal clary sage, which has a local extract, in a limited edition. Continuing to explore wild plants, the spice plant is surrounded by “Explosive notes of wood, wild rose and white nettle”make a pleasant fruit flower, but not much surprise.

Eau de toilette 60 euros/50 ml


In Provence, in Grasse, it is the centifolia rose celebrated by Dior. The brand really delivers on its originality “Miss Dior wine fragrance, fruit of the May 2021 harvest of roses from the Domaine de Manon”. Along with Miss Dior Pink EssenceFrançois Demachy celebrated “all the joy of a spring garden” over there “the meeting between a beautiful flower and the beauty of the woody notes of vetiver, patchouli and guaiac, dressed in pleasant musks”. The rose petals are touchable, soft and clean, sugar free and heavy.

Eau de toilette 170 euros/100 ml


Roses also illuminate the declination shining Brioni eau de parfum. Michel Almairac repeated his 2021 performance by drawing attention “an enchanted day” where we can see “at the same time the sweat of early morning and the softness of night”. this is “unexpected flower note” flavored with cinnamon, cloves and sandalwood “two times and now”. Very different from the brand’s first perfume, this chypre rose is more masculine, more feminine and has a refined classicism.

Eau de parfum 110 euros / 100 ml


Let’s go to the lands with Astier de Villatte, who invited us to the West of Great America to join. Tucson. In between “intoxicating scent of immortelles from the maquis”, “red earth of birch” and “resin of cistus labdanum”The brand specializing in ceramics promises us this eau de parfum signed by Alexandra Monet and “Hot desert of wild beauty”expand the line started by sandmore cold.

Eau de parfum 45 euros/10 ml, 95 euros/30 ml, 95 euros/30 ml


The warmth of the dunes also inspires Eris Parfums, which gives us “playing with fire” appreciate his Scorpio ascendant showing the sign of this dangerous arachnid. Antoine Lie draws outlines with a An overdose of various perfumes : black and red peppercorns, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom and saffron rest on a bed of spices, wood and leather, to create a beautiful spicy herb.

Open 180 euros / 50 ml


Guerlain’s new “Absolus d’Orient” fragrance is widely promoted. Beautiful perfumes. Thierry Wasser wanted to write the essence of coffee with the Oriental card, in an olfactory chiaroscuro between “a warm drydown, full-bodied and full-bodied, infused with black pepper and woody notes of oud, patchouli and sandalwood” a “Refreshing notes of cardamom, notes of red berries and fresh green angelica”. A caffeinated, metallic cardamom, more surprising in the beginning than in the end.

Eau de parfum 164 euros / 125 ml


Released by Vittoria Liu and Randry Glorieux, the new name Hima Jomo invites us to a “spiritual and responsible journey to the limits of the Himalayas”far from “the crimes of everyday hustle in the modern world”with his “Seasons” collection made of four works signed Delphine Thierry, and 95 to 99% of the original. Spring in Bome takes us to the southeast of Tibet, to the heart of the valley “Changing trees in the past centuries”. A floral heart woven with herbal notes that invigorates the surrounding air, “soft and green as a dustpan”. Summer in Paro put us among the pines, for him “scented with incense and amber with sweet notes of honey from the highlands”. The Buddhist temple of Paro Taktsang, located on the cliff, adorns the landscape with mysticism, a composition built around amber resins and a tree. Because Autumn in Lhoka, the perfumer recorded the activity of the inhabitants of this fertile plain, celebrating the harvest of barley. Aromatic and smoky notes are noticeable “strength of heart”while barley, bran, and balsam fir are considered “the opulence and richness of newly harvested cereals”. The eternal snow of the eight highest mountains in the world inspired Winter in Manaslulandscape painting “The face and the cliff, the mineral and the bite”but that’s what it is “a sanctuary for many dead animals”. Peppermint, Vietnamese basil and star anise bring freshness, before giving way to woodsy and musky notes.

Eau de parfum 170 euros / 50 ml


other “excellent olfactory journey”in the jungles of what is now Paraguay, with Forever Guaiac from Atelier Cologne, combining wood with bergamot from Italy and papyrus from India.

So he started his “Rare Cologne” collection around “the purest things, from the farthest and most remote lands”and where it is called “absolute cologne”, that is, depending on the brand, of“Fragrance to enhance the freshness and beauty of citrus fruits”. A beautiful smoky wood, vetiver, awakens Black ink.

€103/30ml, €190/100ml


Thanks to an old raw material of the permanent perfume, including magic amber of Mizensir, which represents ambergris, the source of many stories about its origin and its benefits. Alberto Morillas at Firmenich branded a perfume « bright, pleasant and shot with strong energy and wood »married Cachalox with tangerine, cardamom, orange blossom, Bulgarian rose, bourbon vanilla, musks, benzoin and dreamwood, he said “a drug used for the first time in composition”. Lots of amber woods, mixed with creamy vanilla sandalwood.

Eau de parfum 290 euros / 100ml


Finally, it is not a product but a whole brand that Gérald Ghislain, the founder of Histoires de parfums, chose to dedicate to olibanum, another name given to perfume. Therefore, Olibanum rejects resin with ancestral history, “The burnt offering on the altars dedicated to the gods”in eighteen works, so combine it with maté, ambrette, saffron or cardamom … Here it is used as an extracritical CO₂ extract, a more effective solvent. “appreciate the olfactory characteristics of the raw resin and perfectly recover its notes of wood, perfume, balsamic, mineral, spicy and lemons”. The brand aims to superimpose its scents as a layering technique to personalize its fragrance.

Eau de parfum 28 euros/12 ml, 85 euros/50 ml

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