Punishing men’s perfumes

Mariano Di Vaio poses as the new man for the K Dolce & Gabbana campaign. David Gallizio

Stronger and more complex fragrances, going back to school to represent men’s questions in the post#Metoo era.

Invictus Legend by Paco Rabanne Paco Rabanne
Terre d’Hermès Eau Intense Vetiver Hermes

On the men’s perfume scale, it’s a small change: the five new best-selling 2019 are “eau de parfum”, such as Terre d’Hermès Eau Intense Vétiver and Invictus Legend by Paco Rabanne. A paradigm shift when it comes to men’s preference for eau de toilette, which is not concentrated in perfume molecules – still represents two thirds of sales. “Until now, something new for men is eau de toilette, in the months, found around the freshness in the “sport” editions, very popular in the 2010s, underlines Mathilde Lion, European beauty expert at NDP .However, this past year, the eau de parfum rose by 33% and the eau de toilette fell by 11%. The good health of this first segment was established by Bleu de Chanel and Sauvage de Dior, they immediately rejected the eau de parfum and until now the extracts, the amount of knowledge of the perfume.

Bleu de Chanel Chanel
Sauvage by Dior Dior

In the case of good perfume as elsewhere, one or two big successes are enough to change the trend. Since then, the imagination has run wild. The example with Yves Saint Laurent who sold, in 2019, his two main products La Nuit de l’Homme and Y in an eau de parfum version. “This progress is good for the brands that sell these premium products, especially the advertisers who want them to move their shelves to a slower segment compared to women’s perfumes, said Sylvain Eyraud, sales manager of the manufacturer Takasago. Women have taken a lot of time on social media since #Metoo. With a stronger way, men show their lives and give back to a man without exposing themselves to criticism. Understand, without falling into the stereotypes of virility that have been around for a long time.

Yves Saint Laurent, the night of man Yves Saint Laurent

“The ‘body man’ cliché is old”

Advertising is a good barometer of this change in thinking. So, in the latest advertising image from Dolce & Gabbana – a name famous for its muscular image – the house muse is Mariano Di Vaio, influencer who is an entrepreneur and the father of a family, especially he’s more than a lone cheater despite his open shirt. in a preserved body. After a bike ride through the Tuscan hills, he reunites with family and friends in his old village: something that will delight semiologists of all stripes. “On the establishment, we have focused on men’s emotions this time,” for the evaluation of Émilie Falagan, Insights and Innovation Director Shiseido (which handles the fragrance license of Dolce & Gabbana). “Our customer research has revealed a new rationale based on good values: the temptation is not enough and the cliché of the ‘nice guy’ is not enough. On the one hand, a person must progress in his life beyond the social status only marked by a beautiful watch or a big car; Its success is built on the people who do it, so companies expect it a lot. On the other hand, he must be loyal to his roots, his family, his country.

It’s more different

K by Dolce & Gabbana Dolce & Gabbana

According to this discussion, perfumes are known by different differences under the control of a niche perfumer with original agreements and overdosed ingredients, in full growth. “In the past, men were very interested in sweat, which we wore a little medicine, said the perfumer Nathalie Lorson, the founder of K at Dolce & Gabbana. But more and more of them looking for multifaceted works, where citrus fruits add air to a wooden, oriental or gourmet theme. Finally, power gives the impression of getting what you pay for. Power the problem. Therefore, to fulfill the brief of Dolce & Gabbana – “a Mediterranean fragrance”, the nose chose emblematic elements: orange and lemon from Sicily, sage from the north and red.” This perfume, considered auspicious in the south of Italy, shakes the base of patchouli and vetiver, worse than pepper and without its floral character.” This new challenge shows that, at any time, men can be the future of women.

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