Guests are requested to arrive at 9:40 am for a show scheduled for 10 am sharp on October 2, 2013. Since reducing the patience of the media by starting a show two hours late, Marc Jacobs kept up the momentum. When they went to the Cour Carrée du Louvre, where the booth was built for the Louis Vuitton fashion show, the crowd did not know that they were seeing a backstage fit for an American blockbuster.
Many rumors circulated for several months about the non-renewal of the contract that the American reached Vuitton in 1997, but the fuse was not sold. Doubt begins among the guests who see the decoration. Many features from his old shows have been included: the fountain, the elevators, the station clock, the hotel corridors and the horse carousel – they are all there, reminding of the amazing idea of the planner. , but now everything is lacquered in black.
On the seats, the message of the idea is explained that this collection is dedicated to all women who inspire: from Emmanuelle Alt to Anna Wintour, through Coco Chanel, Rei Kawakubo, Claude Lalanne and Louise Nevelson or Miuccia Prada.
“We need black”
The clock strikes ten, the hands move back: the countdown begins. Edie Campbell walked on a huge Mongolian sheepskin mat – also black – acting as a catwalk, dressed in armor, her body naked, painted with the famous graffiti of Stephen Sprouse for Louis Vuitton – a necessary “brush stroke”. not less than seven hours of work.
Edie Campbell stood in front of the fountain with her arms raised, wrists encased in stylized chains. A simple nod to the 2011 Fétiche collection by Marc Jacobs for the box maker, or a parable of the designer freeing himself from his shackles? “We’re starting to realize it’s a swan song. There’s a funeral scene in Vegas, I know it’s sad,” remembers the historian Loïc Prigent.
Set to music by Philip Glass, haute couture silhouettes follow each other, also black, with touches of navy blue. Everything is opulence and embellishment. Leather jackets, tops, jackets and blousons were covered in jet beads, sequins and embroidered ribbons. Beautiful black lace blouses are worn over jeans. Katie Grand, close to the designer, took care of the style. “Black must do justice to all this beauty. It’s such a beautiful dress,” wrote at the time the nature critic of the New York Times, Cathy Horyn.
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