The Chanel haute couture show was held on Tuesday in Bois de Boulogne. In this collection Fall-Winter 2022-23, Chanel continues to explore the equestrian world with cowboy boots stomping on the sand to change into dresses and long evening dresses.
The idea reflects the first haute couture show in January, where Charlotte Casiraghi of the royal family of Monaco opened on horseback in a set designed by the same artist, Xavier Veilhan. “I am part of the continuity with the original show, while leaving room for experimentation”notes artistic director Virginie Viard, on the parade’s concept note.
After walking on the sand of fun, the models climb the stairs to a gallery that fits the decor and allows guests to clearly see the rooms from all angles. There is no gallop in the fun now but hopefully with the first look, always chosen by the designers, which carries the message of the collection: a light green dress, a short dress and a mid-length dress with buttons opening above. black shoes.
Two other long dresses, an olive green dress and an emerald green ensemble, depart from Chanel’s usual color code. These ankle boots go with most outfits, such as long tweed dresses or airy evening dresses. Short pants and some short dresses are included, on the other hand, with T-bar shoes.
“In this new collection, we see dresses, long dresses like Mademoiselle Chanel designed them in the 1930s, close to the body, even if they are very supported.“, points out Virgine Viard. The rounded shoulders, the square backs, the decoration with geometric patterns also recall the 1930s, while giving a nod to the seventies.
Respecting the culture of the haute couture show, which is not appreciated: a wedding dress closes the show with a fringed shawl and black shoes. It was the Dutch model Jill Kortleve who presented this last coat, as important as the first one.
With her size close to the average French woman, she walked for several seasons for Chanel like other luxury brands, eager to be part of the body positivity movement, fighting the traditionally stereotyped but it appears to be in an embryonic state. catwalks.