The timeless Parisian haute couture – Le Point


SAfter the Men’s Fashion Week, Haute Couture Week has arrived in Paris. Of the twenty-nine houses listed in the official calendar, twenty-four have been chosen to open their collection “in person”, whether with an exhibition or a physical presentation.

It should be said that the feeling raised by haute couture, a French distinction that shows the value of knowledge and creativity, is not suitable to be shown on the 2D screen. Thinking about the canons of beauty, the value of embroideries, the use of new techniques, not to mention any kind of purity, has brought a new principle to couture.

The Dior experience

What better time than the haute couture collections to appreciate the work of the hand? The Artistic Director of Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri celebrates craftsmanship from every angle, literally. The two Indian artists Madhvi and Manu Parekh, of the Chanakya Workshops and the Chanakya Craft School in Bombay who also created the large scale designs that formed the decoration of the parade. And that’s true of the sewing factory that has listed the easy sewing items found in this column.

Crystal pearls, pipes and pendants are placed on a pared-down application of dresses, skirts, leotards, with the addition of pleats and curtains, especially on the skins made, making this wearer a haute couture of his own. .

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Chanel’s limited collection

To present his couture collection, no one left the building on rue Cambon. Not even the softness of the decoration that the artist Xavier Veilhan thinks about constructivism, between the tubular buildings, the thick orange root and raw plywood wood. Neither is the electro funk music expertly arranged by Sébastien Tellier, placed on a platform that dominates the crowd. Not even the beginning of the show with a Charlotte Casiraghi, emeritus rider, riding on her horse among the guests.

An unfair competition that screamed the accuracy of the collection proposed by Virginie Viard. Airy haute couture between colorful tweeds, ruffles, macramé, pearl buttons and geometric embroidery. Dressed in a refined dress, the bride who closed the parade held in her hands a bouquet of blue camellias, a tribute to the artist Gaspard Ulliel who was the muse of the Bleu de Chanel fragrance.

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Schiaparelli’s style of photography

Since the beginning of the pandemic, it was the first show for the historic house created by Elsa Schiaparelli in 1927. Now, the wonders of the artistic director Daniel Roseberry have made the show in the another place: on the back of personalities like Kim Kardashian and Lady Gaga. , whose performance at the celebration of Joe Biden in January 2021 has gone down in history.

For this much-anticipated exhibition, the American designer has taken his exploration of clothes-decor to a small, forward and more surrealism beloved by the creator. The palm trees decorated in the waist, breastplates or breadsticks were shown in gold which became a symbol of the house, a hue “neither hot nor cold, neither copper nor red”. “When done well, fashion has something to say to us, it can help us express something in ourselves. Because it always has the power to move us, ” said Daniel Roseberry.

Valentino’s collaboration

If clothing has begun to question the diversity of bodies by starting to include different morphologies in advertisements and fashion shows, haute couture has remained deaf to these questions to provoke the public. The artistic director of Valentino, the talented Italian designer Pier Paolo Piccioli decided to capture it by presenting his collection called “Anatomy of Couture”, not only in the form of the ideal body but on female and male bodies, all sizes and ages. . His current best example of the canons of beauty that inspires the style of dust in the couture that he has led for several seasons. A collection as refined with a meticulous chromatic palette, adjectives that became names of Valentino.

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Jean-Paul Gaultier is the inspiration

It is enough to see the young animals that come to attend the parade to take the measure of the popularity of Jean-Paul Gaultier. After Chitose Abe from Sacai, the French designer gave the artistic direction of his couture collection to Glenn Martens, a graduate of the Royal Academy of Antwerp and founder of the Y/Project brand. A selection inspired by the sight of thirty-six masterful silhouettes went to the main room of the house. The young designer looked at a new look and was filled with admiration for the photos of Jean-Paul Gaultier, which he created in 2008.

The lacing, the corset, the stripes, the nautical theme have been recreated with optical plays and clever techniques such as corals melted into pieces. “Me and, at the same time, he went ahead. It’s like I got a facelift,” said Jean-Paul Gaultier, happy, to Agence France-Presse. If collaboration is used by the fashion industry, this collection carried out with finesse by Glenn Martens shows the best of both worlds.

Fendi’s homage to Rome

A few days after celebrating in Paris his men’s collection for Dior, here is Kim Jones who drew on the Roman roots of Fendi to imagine his couture collection, the first to go in person in Paris. When you walk the streets of Rome, you will always return between the past and the present, said the British designer, inspired by the infinity of the Italian city. This bridge between history and the future, he made the main theme of his parade. Like the old pictures of the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana, the headquarters of Fendi, which he painted, these precious clothes were photographed and used as prints or these bags decorated with stones volcanoes, according to archaeological evidence of ancient civilizations. All black and white silhouettes combine the beauty of centuries and modern technology.


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