Quintis Sandalwood Reimagined Contest: and the winners are…

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France

Editorial team

The competition was launched at the end of 2021 by the industry specializing in the production of Indian sandalwood and Australian Quintis Sandalwood, in collaboration with the American Society of Perfumers, which will reach the final: it has been announced two winners at the Wolrd Perfumery Congress (WPC). ) in Miami in early July. Bright.

The selection for the Sandalwood Reimagined competition was difficult: almost 300 compositions from around the world were evaluated by a jury of expert perfumers. The participants were only instructed to use a minimum of 1% of Indian sandalwood oil grown by the Quintis company in their application, and to go with it with caution. After exploring the journeys and thoughts of the last people in the ” World Cup » (spices or high talents) and ” coming out » (young perfumers and students), we offer you an interview with the two winners presented during the closing cocktail of the World Perfumery Congress in Miami (WPC), on 1would be July 2022.

Jennifer Jambon, Argeville, France: international award

Jennifer Jambon, Argeville, France

You first won the competition organized by Quintis six years ago. Are you sure how to access this new edition?

The competition prize I won was a trip to see Quinti’s sustainable plantations in Australia, and that memory has been the inspiration for my work this year. I remember very much this magical moment when the tree was cut, in the middle of a large forest, and the feeling of freedom I felt at that time. It’s really fun to have such a great topic: everyone fits the topic in a different way.
In general, competitions are a very good time for the perfumer, but it is a very good time when they open everything, as in the case of Sandalwood Reimagined: this allows young people to show themselves and develop self-confidence; Sometimes it allows you to prove a business, because you don’t often make a perfume in the beginning of your business. I also won a competition from the Société Française de Parfumerie [maintenant SFPC] and it really helped me when I went after it.

What do you like most about Quintis sandalwood oil?

It’s very nice, rich, with a rich, milky texture, but also dry wooden edges that make me think of sawdust. There is a powder, vanilla, aromatic side evoking bay Saint Thomas and saffron. Then I set aside a coffee note that I wanted to bring out.

How did the teacher develop during its development?

I have the original idea: the memory of my journey. I like to think of a bright sandalwood, all in glass, that shows a lot of nature, with the history of irrigation that Quintis has improved. I started to make a flower composition, to raise the sandalwood, to give it a light texture. I started with a mimosa that I slowly reduced to get the complexity. I had another nautical idea, but it wasn’t rich enough, and it didn’t seem original to me. I took the time to put everything together, to find the right sound.

What do you want to bring to the perfume of tomorrow?

On a design level, I really like to work with small styles, to allow us to show the beautiful things we have, and therefore appreciate each thing we use for their value fair enough. This is about the sustainable side of perfumery: some perfumes will disappear, the prices will go up, it will be a difficult thing that we have to accept, but I think that perfumers can use this will be a mental thing. , to change. the document.

Which perfumes or manufacturers have inspired you the most?

One of the releases that stood out to me the most Earth of Hermes. I am fascinated by the work of Francis Kurkdjian, for his brand or other buildings. I really like the art direction on Tom Ford, with the same compositions White Sun, Red Sandalwood, Neroli Portofino and more Smoked ebony. And more generally, I like iridescent perfumes, too Iris Prima by Alberto Morillas in Penhaligon or silver treet signed Annick Menardo for Dior.

What do we want from you after the success of this competition?

I was very proud to share my perfume, to tell its story, the journey in Australia. I will be very happy to have more opportunities in the future to do this creative work, presenting beautiful fragrances. This is really difficult because a lot has been done about the ingredients of the palette, but I want to find out how to bring this twist, this new look to what has already been seen, by translating in a new way, and marrying different messages.

Fanny Ginolin, Takasago, France: Emerging Talent Award

Fanny Ginolin, Takasago, France

Why did you want to participate in the Quinti competition?

I have already participated in the Corpo 35 competition, and I am the winner in 2019: an exercise that I really like, it gives me new goals and I can see a professional jury at work. So, when I heard about Sandalwood Reimagined while reading the article on Nez, I went: I just wanted to make a post around this wood. Having the opportunity to work with something as exotic as Quintis sandalwood was very interesting and opened me up to exploring the types of raw materials that are not often presented. For the competition, I have to organize myself in order to prepare outside my working hours. And it’s a broad creative topic, very interesting: to be sure, the last people – whose songs we can expect during the ceremony – have made very different ideas.

Compared to other styles you’ve seen before, what do you admire most about Quintis’ style?

I’ve actually worked with other sandalwood oils and this is the first time I’ve smelled this one. In addition to being eco-responsible, one immediately notices how good the material is, strong and tough. In addition to the sweet and milky features, soft and pleasant, there is a sweet message that I always come back to, and I want to show it.

What problems did you encounter during the production process?

My intention is to restore the sandal journey between its country of origin, India, and its developed country, Australia. Sandalwood is a base note, if you want to find it in the wardrobe, it is difficult. Care must be taken that it is not covered by materials that can be transported. But I want you to be able to see from the beginning to the end, to give an idea to the person taking the job that they are going with the drug. The main thing is that I need to recreate the ocean note in the heart so that it does not persist and the strong Indian spices, such as cumin, which take everywhere.

Which perfumes or manufacturers have inspired you the most?

The job opened me up to the world of perfume 24, Town Hermès, which my mother wore, and which always evokes memories and emotions. But I really like the work of Jean-Claude Ellena, he is an example for me: I find his way of showing the specifics of some raw materials, with unexpected combinations, interesting. Quentin Bisch is also an example of his originality and precision in the perfumes he creates.

What is the meaning of the perfume you want to put forward?

In general, I like to create new combinations, to combine ingredients from the palette that we do not expect to see together, to create dualities, between softness and power for example, to stand out while leaving the olfactory accessible.
I also think that we need to highlight these beauty products, encourage research like Quintis, and guarantee the biodegradability of the formulas. I don’t need 100% natural, I understand that the industry is moving towards green synthetic production, more responsible for the environment and consumers. In one of my jobs, I learned a lot about agro-resources to be able to strengthen plants that are not used, so that they don’t get lost. This is an ecologically important step but it is interesting olfactory: it can expand the palette, to see the differences between two parts of the same thing.

What do we want from you after the success of this competition?

I hope that there will be opportunities for creative development, because I want to become a perfumer. Winning the competition confirmed my pursuit of this path, and gave me the hope of finding a position as a student perfumer or young perfumer in a company.

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